Monday, August 29, 2011

Day 44: Prawda, Man. to Winnipeg, Man.

Prawda, oooohhhhh that sounds fancy

Distance: 125.5 km
Riding Time: 5:09 hrs
Average Speed: 24.3 km/h
Max. Speed: 42.5 km/h

Got on the road today eager to get to Winnipeg - my first big city since leaving Ottawa. I was kind of excited to see it because I've never been and I'm wondering what the "heart of Canada" looks like. So far it is a great city, but like all cities, for me anyway, it's kind of hard to navigate at first -especially considering that there is a an intersection of 5 or so other streets called Confusion Corner. I guess in contrast to just strictly staying on the main highway, making a few turns here and there just gets me totally disoriented now haha.

The ride today from Prawda wasn't that long at all and I made 100 kms in under 4 hours with the help of a very rare, but much appreciated tailwind. At some point after entering Manitoba, the hills and turns all ceased to exist and now it is endless straight highway in front of me and behind. I'm finding it kind of hard to keep track of time while on the road because of the lack of scenery change, and, if I forget time, I can go an hour or more without stopping and not even realize it.

After making it to Winnipeg, I met up with Katie and Dylan at a bike shop. Dylan had to put his bike in for a tune-up so he could be bikeless until Monday or so (It's Thursday today). So we are staying at a friend of Katie's childhood home. Tonight we decided to celebrate our exodus from Ontario with some screw drivers and a rest day or two coming up.

Probably Saturday I'll head out on my own towards Regina to meet my brother and then cycle to Calgary.


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Saturday, August 27, 2011

Day 43: Kenora, Ont. to Prawda, Man.

Ontario, it's not you, it's me. Sorry I have to leave...

Distance: 109.2 kms
Riding Time: 4:58 hrs
Average Speed: 21.9 km/h
Max. Speed: 50.5 km/h

YAAAAYYY!!! Out of Ontario finally!! I arrived in the very small town of Prada, Manitoba today, which is about 100 kms east of Winnipeg.

The wind was very gusty today and from the Northwest, but it seemed to slow as the day went along. And it was much cooler than yesterday; I actually wore my sweater for part of the day.

I took a break at the border to get some info and met an older woman who was camped nearby. She offered to show me a nearby lake that she happened to admire, so I went. It was really very nice - only a few houses around it and no motor boats were allowed on it. It had apparently been formed from the crater of a meteorite strike eons ago! Pretty cool. The rock in this area is suppose to be some of the oldest exposed rock on Earth at several billions of years old. Above us in the sky there was a Bald Eagle soaring at about 500 meters. It was my first confirmed sighting of a Bald Eagle in the wild (I think I saw a couple in Cape Breton, but was driving by and didn't get a good view). I am very partial to any form of wildlife and seeing this amazing creature made my day, or week maybe.

When I left the lake, I was debating about whether I should take the Trans-Canada highway like I'd been doing, or go north on a sub-highway. I chose the sub-highway, but when I started riding on it the surface was in awful shape. When I saw a turnoff for the highway 1 (the Trans-Canada) I jumped on it and it was just fine. I was worried about the lack of a shoulder and the speed limit increase to 100 km/h, but after being on the 17 for what seemed like millenia, there seemed to be plenty of room for everyone to be happy. It's a 4-lane split highway, which sounds unfun, but the traffic is really not bad because everyone can go all the way over into the other lane to pass me with no need to worry about oncoming traffic.

When I was close to Prawda, my destination for the evening, a camper/bus pulled off the road just ahead of me. As I was driving by I hear a yell and guess who it was? Katie and Dylan, the people I'd met earlier in Nipigon who were also heading west to Victoria, BC. They had been offered a ride in Dryden earlier that day because apparently it was pouring and two kind retirees took pity on them. They let me come into the camper and it was like a house on wheels, with all the amenites. They offered me a beer and you know I can't refuse. Katie and Dylan were headed to the Peg that night and we are suppose to meet tomorrow when I get there. Hopefully I'll get some time to write my blog as I am quite far behind.

Now that I have finally left Ontario, I have a few short questions I would like to ask her:

1) Why don't you care about cyclists (Northern Ontario)? (sad face)
2) Why so many lakes?
3) Why are you so long?
4) Thank you for all the blueberries, raspberries and blackberries (not a question)
5) Will I see you again sometime?

Please take your time while answering these questions and email me your answers.

Thank you,

Ryan Hearn


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Day 42: Dryden, Ont. to Kenora, Ont.

If you can't take the heat, go to Northern Ontario and jump in a lake

Distance: 143.9 kms
Riding Time: 6:04 hrs
Average Speed: 23.6 km/h
Max. Speed: 54.7 km/h

Today was suppose to be a hot one, and the weatherman did not lie. There were record setting temperatures in Winnipeg and much of Manitoba. Winnipeg reached a temperature of 36.8 degrees Celsius! I'm not sure how hot it was where I was, but il fait chaud! So chaud in fact that at one point, while driving past one of the 1000's of lakes in this area, I jumped in one (Bee Lake I think it was called). It was so refreshing! But it seemed like I was only wet for about 2 minutes before the sun was making bacon of my poor hide once again.

After many breaks, including one that saw me devour a delicious square of Reese's Pieces fudge, I ended up in Kenora. It was quite late, about 7:30 pm, when I arrived, so after touching base with my hosts for the evening I got a bite to eat and headed to their place (My thanks go to Matthew Jeffers for asking his aunt and uncle if I could spend the night at their place). By the time I got going it was getting very dark, but the street lights were allowing me to see just fine. Wouldn't you know it though, the street I was headed for had no lights and was very long. No worries though, I threw on my trusty headlight and got there. But not before spotting two deer very close to the road. The way they ran made them look like spirits that were flying through the night.

Tomorrow I'll bid adieu to Ontario, and not soon enough.


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Day 41: Ignace, Ont. to Dryden, Ont.

Another day, another mother trucker

Distance: 109.9 kms
Riding Time: 4:36 hrs
Average Speed: 23.8 km/h
Max. Speed: 47.4 km/h

Last night I sprang for a motel room in Ignace, so I slept in today and only got on the road by 10:30 am. The winds were going - you guessed it - from the west, so it was another day of duck and pedal riding. You just wait until I get a tailwind though; I'll go 300 kms! I promise.

Lately it seems that there is at least one close call with a big rig per day and today was no exception. Like a said before though, 99 % of truckers are considerate and share the road (I am thankful to every person that passes me safely), but every so often you get a psychopathic operator behind the wheel of this enormous and very fast cyclist-bulldozing machine. (This episode of Near Death on a Bike is brought to you by Depends. Depends, because sometimes you get the SH!T scared out of you.) Today I was leisurely biking along the very generous 1-2 foot shoulder when I am startled by the sound of a 18-wheeler's air horn approaching fast from behind. The horn continued for at least 10 seconds as the truck approached quickly and all sorts of things went through my mind. I couldn't turn around to see the issue because of the narrowness of the shoulders, but I could see there was no oncoming traffic so this trucker should not have any problems passing me safely. Well, for reasons unknown to me this person decided that I would be a good person to nearly kill. And I'm not being overly dramatic - this guy NEARLY killed me. He was so close and going so fast that if I had moved a few inches to the left I would have been clipped and severely injured, no doubt. And to add to the terror he kept his horn on the whole time! I'm not sure if many people who are reading this have ever cycled on a highway, but most have likely stood on the shoulder of a highway while cars drive by. You can really feel the air being pushed around by these machines, so imagine the scariness of a truck weighing several tons flying beside you at mere inches while the horn is blowing and there is only a loose gravel shoulder to turn to that will surely cause you to do cartwheels should you try to ride on it. Anyway, I was absolutely livid at this driver, wondering why someone would intentionally be so hateful as to do such a thing, and I was plotting my revenge should I see him again when I pulled into a rest stop to gather my nerves. A gentleman by the name of Jerry approached me and asked if I needed food or water (he was a cyclist himself), so I gratefully accepted. I told him about this trucker and, sure enough, he was being obnoxious and dangerous to everyone on the road, not just me. Jerry told me how he was behind the same guy and he wouldn't let any other drivers pass him (quite annoying on a two lane highway). Anyway, it was good to know he doesn't just have a hate-on for cyclists, I guess. (Dear Mom and Dad, I know right now you are probably worried for my life, but I'm okay, so no need to worry!)

I got to Dryden and got a bite to eat, went on the comp for a bit and tried to find a place to camp. A local guy I talked to mentioned that there were some woods in behind Walmart so I was headed there when I spotted somebody sitting on the side walk beside a bike and a trailer. I went to see if everything was okay and we started talking. His name is Bob Gent and he was heading from Banff to MontrĂ©al with his dog Harold, when he blew out is calf trying to race a bicycle courier. Silly. He was trying to hitchhike to Thunder Bay, but had been there all day and was having no luck. So I stayed and chatted for a bit, shared a beer and some stories. He had been on the move, without a fixed address for about 8 years. He carried a saxophone and made money playing that. He also told me a great story about how he beat the boredom of riding through Manitoba; he biked naked! For about 5 kms, he said he stripped down to his birthday suit and biked down the highway. I might just have to try this! haha.

Tomorrow I'll head to Kenora, then finally, out of Ontario.



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Day 40: Upsala, Ont. to Ignace, Ont.

What is the price to buy the wind?

Distance: 112.2 kms
Riding Time: 4:56 hrs
Average Speed: 22.7 km/h
Max. Speed: 48.3 km/h

Not sure what is up with all the strange place names, but I'm here in Ignace, Ont. (If anyone can enlighten me as to the origins of these names, please do).

I'm really beginning to believe that common opinion is actually fact when it comes to westerly winds across Canada. I have not excluded writing about when I have had a tailwind, and without counting I think there's been about 5 days, maybe. Today, the wind was equally uncooperative - blowing in my face at all times, sometimes very strong. It also felt quite chilly...perhaps fall is in the air. This might be true, but I hear there is a heat wave on the way from the west.

Anyway, I only almost got hit by an 18-wheeler once today, so that's not so bad. I'm really getting tired of highway 17 and Ontario in general. There is absolutely no consideration given to cyclists by those who designed these roads. If I were to do this trip again, I would skip Northern Ontario (sacrificing beautiful scenery for safety) and probably try to find a route through the states. I must say, though, that the majority of drivers are quite considerate, so I can't complain - it's just that it's those near misses that really last in your memory.

I'm only about 300 kms from the Manitoba border, so I'll probably get there in 2-3 days. Not exactly sure where I'm going tomorrow, but it will be about 100-150 kms west of here.


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Friday, August 26, 2011

Day 39: Thunder Bay, Ont. to Upsala, Ont.

Just grin and bear it

Distance: 140.2 kms
Riding Time: 6:10 hrs
Average Speed: 22.6 km/h
Max. Speed: 53.3 km/h
# of bears seen on side of road: 2

Frank offered to take us to Mount Mackay today before we got on the road, so we all got in Marcy's SUV and drove to the huge cliffs overlooking the city (really two cities), Lake Superior and the Sleeping Giant. On the way, Frank proudly showed us some arrows he'd spray painted on the road for a 5 day bike tour he'd organized and led recently. Again, this man amazes me. We made a stop before Mt. Mackay at a very old fair that had a hand-made merry-go-round that is 97 years old. We got to go on too!

We bid farewell to Lake Superior by braving her frigid waters, but only up to our knees and then we went to Mt. Mackay. The views were incredible up there, at about 600 ft above the city and it's possible to go to the very top of the cliff too if you wanted.

We got back to the house pretty late, at about 1:30 pm, but I was determined to make Upsala. Everybody was moving kind of slow so I was going to just leave on my own, but at the last minute Katie decided that she'd come with me for a bit. We got to Kakabeka falls and it was tourist mayhem. I felt no desire to be part of the masses of revellers, so we waited for the others to catch up to us before I left. Although I definitely enjoyed the company on the road, I kind of felt like riding alone because since I've been riding alone for about a month I had really gotten accustomed to keeping my own pace.

The roads were okay except for a 5-6 km stretch of ground up pavement and a few jackass truckers. one trucker decided that I was not worthy to be on the road and while he was passing another 18-wheeler, both headed in my direction, forced me off the road. What a guy! Anyway, I made it to Upsala and am camped out in a campground that works on the honour system.

Tomorrow I'm not entirely sure where I'm headed.


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Day 38: Unexpected delay in Thunder Bay

Severe storm is a no show

We woke up today ready to get on the road, but our hosts informed us that there were severe storm warnings in our area and the area where we were heading. So we made the choice to stay another day.

Tonight we had a feast, and how. Dylan, the guy from Victoria, is a cook and offered to prepare us all (the French couple had joined us today and we informed them of the storm, so they stayed too) a meal. He made a vegetable lasagna to die for and Marcy made such an amazing desert of BBQ'd peaches with cinnamon and brown sugar and ice cream on top. There were beers and sambuca shots, one very funny one I did after a dare from Frank (my mom will not be proud). When you light sambuca on fire, you can extinguish it by covering it with your hand, chest...bumcheek. Needless to say, I cannot turn down a dare.

Tonight was lots of fun and Frank is an amazing guy. I hope to keep in contact with him. Just a peak into why he's so amazing: he only has 3% of his vision due to a degenerative retinal disease called Retinitus Pigmentosa. Yet, he is one of THE MOST active guys I have ever met. Period. He bikes to work everyday (he can't legally drive), he runs all the time, kayaks, cross country skis. I could go on. He is a real inspiration in how he makes the most of every single day.

Tomorrow, come hell or high water, I'll be making it to Upsala.

Day 37: Rest in Thunder Bay, Ont.

A day of fun in Thunder Bay

Well today turned out to be a great day for just relaxing. We all worked on our bikes this morning after a good breakfast and then we contacted a warmshowers member here in Thunder Bay - in fact, the only member in Thunder Bay. Frank has had over 20 guests stay with him this summer so far. He and his girlfriend, Marcy, are perfect hosts. They allowed us to come over with no notice and made all of us feel very welcome. We are set up in our own beds and will sleep well tonight.

Also, we visited the Terry Fox memorial and drove around the city a little bit. That's right, we drove. Frank lent us his car and I got to drive for the first time in what seems like years, but is really only weeks. It felt so strange; I could barely go the speed limit because it felt so fast!

Tomorrow will be a ~150 km ride to Upsala, Ont. where I think we cross into another time zone. An extra hour in the day? Alright.

Day 36: Nipigon, Ont. to Thunder Bay, Ont.

Recumbent Romance Ă  la France

Distance: 113.4 kms
Riding Time: 5:56 hrs
Average Speed: 19.0 km/h
Max. Speed: 48.3 km/h

Today was a really difficult day because of the wind. It was very strong and gusty and directly in our face for the most part. We left around 10 am and very quickly ran into problems. Katie's rear tire went flat and we found a staple had pierced the tire. After fixing that one we only went another 10 kms or so and Dylan lost a nut for his front rack (for carrying the bags on the bike). After fixing THAT, we were jokingly saying that I was next. And lo and behold, I managed to get my very first flat tire! I had picked up a staple too. This was my first flat after 3000 + kms, though, so my luck was strong, but we  shall see how, or if, it continues.

We met up along the way with a french couple who are biking around the world for 3 years on their honeymoon. They are super cool and have the strangest bike I've ever seen. It's a tandem with a regular bike in back and then a recumbent in front. I'll include a photo when I can upload them (he says that all the time).

We're staying at one of Katie's family friend's place in Thunder Bay. She's got connections everywhere it seems. The French couple are staying at a house that a random stranger they met offered to them while he was away.

Tomorrow we might head out or we might take it easy and do repairs, etc. We shall see.


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Day 35: Pukaskwa, Ont. to Nipigon, Ont.

Over da hill

Distance: 210.7 kms
Riding: 8:44 hrs
Average Speed: 24.1 km/h
Max. Speed: 70.1 km/h

Well, this was a day on an epic scale. I started fairly early at 9 am and went down the 13 km side road to meet up with the main highway #17. It was a gorgeous day with blue skies and sun, but not too hot. After a quick stop for breakfast I arrived in Terrace Bay at about 2 pm. I had some lunch and stopped to get a "mickey" (or pint, as Nova Scotians call them) because I felt like having a drink. I decided it would be okay to try for Nipigon, about 105 kms away after already going about 100 or so.

Well! The hills were unbelievable. I don't know what mountain range is here, but they are monsters. Long (4-5 kms) hills with pretty steep slopes. The descents are amazing and are well worth the climb though. Take a look at the map link below and zoom in around Rossport. After that, there were some serious hills.

I was thoroughly exhausted when I arrived in Nipigon and was intending to stay at a motel called Town & Country motel. However, I met some other cyclists on the way there that were camped out at a rest stop. So I stopped and they're headed west too! Their names are Dylan and Katie, from Victoria. They left from Peterborough, Ont. and are headed back to beautiful Victoria.

Tomorrow we'll travel to Thunder Bay and I'll tell you more about Dylan and Katie. They are pretty interesting folks.


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Day 34: Corner of Hwy 17 & 632 to Marathon, Ont. (Pukaskwa National Park)

It’s Pukaskwa, Puck-a-saw!

Distance: 49.2 kms
Riding Time: 2:15 hr
Average Speed: 21.8 km/h
Max. Speed: 43.7 km/h

Today was a short for riding and basically there is nothing to say about the ride itself. Okay, well I almost got eaten by another leash-less dog, but this one was nowhere near German Shepherd size. I got to Pukaskwa National Park and managed to find Bob and Lucie’s site.

After meeting up with them, we got a chance to talk to some of the Ojibwe elders there who work for the park. They were talking about how their ancestors used the land and they had a map showing the area with all the Ojibwe place names on it. I love learning about native culture because it makes you realise that before Europeans arrived and took over, there was a flourishing human presence that had been living here for millennia.

Afterward, Bob offered to take me on a paddle in the canoe. Bob had done many things in his life, including racing canoes, and he complimented me on my stroke! Must have been that course I took when I was 8 or so. After the paddle - which was so serene - I went for a hike by myself and picked a whole sandwich container of blueberries in about half hour. They are everywhere! Later, after a great simple supper that Lucie made, I went by the river to use my computer by the visitor center and I saw the MOST incredible moonrise I have ever seen. It peaked up over the horizon as orange as an orange and as it rose, the reflection looked like a shimmering road of orangeness.

Tomorrow I'll head to Terrace Bay and if I have the juice and the rain holds out I may hit up Nipigon.

PS: Check out Lucie's artwork, she is very gifted. It's all pencil sketchwork: www.luciegagnonartist.ca


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Day 33: Wawa, Ont. To Corner of Hwy 17 & 632


Don’t know when to leave

Distance 142.1 kms
Riding Time: 6:22 hrs
Average Speed: 24.1 km/h
Max. Speed: 54.5 km/h
# of bobcats or lynx spotted crossing the road: 1

I left really late today, so my goal of reaching Marathon at 188 kms away wasn’t looking all that likely. I got to White River (famous for being the place where Winnie the Pooh, the actual bear, was bought by an army company as a mascot) and stopped for a coffee and ended up wasting a bunch of time on the internet when I found a WIFI connection. It was really getting dark when I saw a turn around area with a bathroom and picnic tables and a good woody area to hide a tent; so I set up. Hid my food in an old mining bulldozer that’s on display here, so hopefully bears aren’t familiar with that type of machinery.  

Tomorrow I am going to stop by the campground in Pukaskwa National Park to see if I can find Bob and Lucie, but if not I’ll head further rest around Lake superior.




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Day 32: Rest day in Wawa, Ont.

Bloggy, blog, blog

Did basically nothing, but relax today. Watched some of a season opener for the English Premier League. It`s soccer. Still reading? I thought you just fell asleep. It was Liverpool playing…I forget, but it ended in a 1-1 draw. I know, totally exciting. I’d really like to follow the league closely this year, but I say that every year and never do, so I doubt I will. I’m usually just content with catching the occasional game.

Anyway, finally got caught up on my blog today. Except as I write this in my journal I am already putting myself behind again. HA.

Tomorrow I’m going to try to reach Marathon, Ont.

Saturday, August 13, 2011

Day 31: Montreal River, Ont. to Wawa, Ont.

Wawa what'd you say?

Distance: 109.5 kms
Riding Time: 4:33 hrs
Average Speed: 24.0 km/h
Max. Speed: 66.8 km/h!!!

Well I`m about a month in and I think that I`m about halfway through this journey. Before I left, while corresponding with other cycle tourists, a common phrase was that a trip like this is "a life changing experience". Before I began and even for the first couple of weeks I never realised how true this statement could be. I think the change though, actually came even before I left Halifax. It all started to change when I followed my heart, regardless of the risks/dangers, uncertainties, inexperience, assured loneliness, physical challenges, etc. There were sooooo many reasons I was told that his idea was crazy. And coming from people I love and respect it was hard to ignore. I'm glad I did.

Today I woke early after assuredly one of the best sleeps I have gotten in a long time. Perhaps it was the easiness of the company I was with, or the two cold pills I took before bed. Nonetheless, 6:45 am found me in an excellent mood. After breakfast, I took some pictures with Les Dames de Coeur, Robin and John. The comradery was hard to part with, but I was faithful that more positivity was in store for today.

The climbs today started right from the get with a 3 km grind out of the valley leading to the Montreal River. Along the way I met a couple, Nick and Patrizia, who were driving west with no particular destination in mind, but just taking whatever comes their way. Kindred spirits. We shared some snacks while we chatted looking at a gorgeous panorama of Lake Superior with Montreal Island in view. The ride was up and down, then back up again, but I felt strong and always looked forward to the descents after the long climbs.

Eventually I came to Wawa where I planned to meet up with a relative; my Aunt Ellen's brother's family, the Macdonell's. Before I got a hold of them I stopped at a Timmy's for a snack and coffee and ran into Bob and Lucie, some friendly strangers who invited me to visit them in Pukaskwa provincial park near Marathon, Ont. Lucie is the artist in residence at the park and Bob is a cyclist himself. I look forward to getting to know  them.

The Macdonell's are a lovely and busy family of six. Mom and Dad, Debbie and Raymond, sons Breton, Josh and Ryan and daughter, Amy. Even though I've never met them before, I instantly felt at home and welcome.

I'll take (another) rest day tomorrow and work on non-biking related  things, then I'll hopefully be headed to the park to meet Bob and Lucie.

Be Free


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Day 30: Sault Ste. Marie, Ont. to Montréal River, Ont.

Never fear, super-cyclists to the rescue!

Distance: 130.1 kms
Riding Time: 5:39 hrs
Average Speed: 22.9 km/h
Max. Speed: 57.9 km/h

I left Sault Ste. Marie on a route outlined in a pamphlet from VĂ©lorution, but still managed to get lost. I was consulting my trusty road map when a cyclist came along, asked if I was lost and offered some help. He was actually going the same way so we travelled together for a while. Once we got to the 17 again we parted ways, but not before he donated a delicious smoothie flavoured energy bar to the cause.

As I was biking I started to feel a little feverish and I think I may still have a lingering cold, but I managed to make it to Montréal River. I was planning to spend the night in the woods, but when I stopped to fill my waterbottles at a campground/resort, who do I run in to? Another cycling group who ended up inviting me to camp with them! Of course, they are all heading east, but still. The timing of it all seems perfect. I mean, the camping spot wasn't in my direct line of view when I entered. It just so happened that when I pulled into the campground, two of the cyclists were headed to the bathroom near the entrance. If I had been 30 seconds sooner or later I would not have met them. Makes me think. I made sure to get all their contact and blog information so I could follow their journeys. They are all lovely people to be around. There is a group of 4 women from Québec with an average age of 58 who are cycling across Canada, and two younger guys, Robin Taylor and John Turecki who had joined them earlier in their trip. If you want to check their websites, look at the blogs that I'm following.

Tomorrow I'll head to Wawa to stay with some relatives. I hear the ride will be quite a challenge, but I'm up for it.


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Day 29: Rest day in Sault Ste. Marie, Ont.

I read you loud and clear wind, I`m not going anywhere

After lastnights and yesterdays foul weather, the wind picked up to an incredible speed today going about 45 km/h from the northwest. Guess which way I was planning on heading? So I took a day to relax, write up some bloggy blogs, explore the city, etc.

This bike shop is special. Never have I heard of a similar type of place. Definitely check out their website and if you ever head through the Soo, drop by for a visit. You'll likely meet some really interesting people either in the shop or camped out in the back. Oh and make sure to stop by the Husky's and say hello to Sharon.

Tomorrow, when the wind hopefully let's up some I'll travel along the shores of Lake Superior. Not exactly sure of my destination, but somewhere will be found.

Day 28: Desbarats, Ont. to Sault Ste. Marie, Ont.


The day the door opened and I crossed the threshold

Distance: 58.3 kms
Riding Time: 2:17 hrs
Average Speed: 25.4 km/h
Max. Speed: 46.4 km/h

I will remember this day forever. Not because I rode super far (because I didn’t), but because of who I met and how things came together how they did. I swear it was orchestrated by a higher being.

This morning wasn’t the best. I slept in, but I felt great and well rested when I woke up at 9. I made some oatmeal, some PB and J sandwiches to eat and some coffee - all very leisurely. Finally at 10:30 I was beginning to pack up my things and decided I would fix a wobble in my rear wheel. I heard a noise behind me and there was one of the young girls that lived at the house standing there holding an iphone with a clock display. She says to me, “Granddad says it’s time to go”.  Well I was quite insulted, but I said thank you nonetheless and got on my way, grumpier than the Grinch on Christmas. I hadn’t figured out yet where I was going to stop, but I decided I would take a break at least in Sault Ste. Marie.

On the way, a thunder and lightning storm started, so I wanted to find a spot to rest up and eat. I stopped at a Huskey’s outside of Sault Ste. Marie and this is where it really gets interesting. I walk into the restaurant looking like a drowned rat, people staring at me thinking WTF?, but when I’m looking for a table an older gentleman sitting alone asks me if I wanted to join him.

His name was Jean BĂ©liveau, he is from MontrĂ©al. He left home in August 2000 and has walked around the world for 11 years. His reason: he was having a mid-life crisis. His cause: peace for children around the world. His journey will be over in October this year (2011) where he will once again be with is family, wife and kids, and his newly born grand kids in MontrĂ©al. He is and will always be a source of inspiration for myself and I’m sure many other people. It was the greatest honour to meet him and to have lunch with him. His webpage is www.wwwalk.com. Check him out and spread the word, his story is amazing.

If I can continue, I know I don’t usually write this long, but this day was something else. The waitress at the restaurant was so kind, her name was Sharon, she made sure my water and coffee was always full and she was genuinely very interested in both mine and Jean’s stories. She even wrote a book or a journal about the people she has met going through the restaurant. She obviously really enjoys living vicariously through adventurous people. I’ll share her journal once she sends me it.

Anyway, my mind was blown when I left the restaurant, the sun came out, it was a spiritually rich experience. My eyes felt opened. I felt like I had crossed through a threshold and now saw the light.

I drove down the road a km and saw a stripmall with a CIBC, so I stopped to get some cash. Then I saw a grocery store and stopped to get food. As I was picking up some nectarines a lady tells me that there are other local nectarines that are much tastier, so I bought them instead. When I was packing up my stuff outside, I see this same lady and she tells me about this bike shop, VĂ©lorution. OH!! I said. I didn’t know that was here! It’s a top-of-the-line bike shop that even has free camping in the back, wifi, and a bathroom with shower. Hard to believe it’s all free. So I go there, after another intense lightning storm I make it. I picked up a new rear tire because the one I had bought in North Bay was a warped piece of … rubber. I met some cool folks here too who are travelling through. One guy from MontrĂ©al who cycled from BC, another couple from QuĂ©bec and GaspĂ©sie. And another fellow, a 68 year old gentleman by the name of Ken Gran, who has been travelling the world as a missionary on a bike for about 15 years. He has written 7 books and has seen the world. He’s a very spiritual man and we have had some great discussions. Gonna have a few wobbly pops tonight and cook on the bbq here. Night!
Check out VĂ©lorutions website: http://www.velorution.ca/ (PS VĂ©lo is french for bike, so think vĂ©lo and revolution)




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Day 27: Nairns Center, Ont to Desbarats, Ont.


Been a long time comin', but a short story tellin'

Distance: 204.5 kms
Riding Time: 7:46 kms
Average Speed: 26.3 km/h
Max. Speed: 49.6 km/h 

Woke up super early to the hacking cough of my host’s lovely girlfriend out to have a smoke. I packed my gear and left ASAP.  

Last night was terrible. I’ll be completely honest, I barely slept, maybe 4 hours at most, because while I was talking to my girlfriend last night she decided she wanted to break up with me. I’m not getting into details, but just know I was pretty shook up. And still am.

My ride today was like a therapy ride. I went from 7:30 am and only arrived at around 8 pm. I didn’t want to stop, make small talk with anyone – just pedal. So I did. And I’m happy I went this far. It feels like I’ve accomplished something and put maybe a little behind me. I really want to enjoy this trip to its fullest, but to be honest, I feel like I can’t get out of Ontario soon enough. I’m hoping Lake Superior is as nice as I’ve heard, but I guarantee that the it will be just as crappy.

Anyway, enough doom and gloom. I saw the coolest herd of cows today. As I rode by them, they started galloping along with me! (That is, if cows gallop) I had to take some pictures so I went for a visit and they all came over to me. What a cool and inquisitive bunch of bovine. 

I’ve landed in Desbarats, Ont. Population 600. There was someone here on warmshowers who said cyclists could camp on their yard. But when I arrived, the person on warmshowers wasn’t here but her husband generously offered to put me up in the cabin in the back. It has satellite tv, a bathroom, but sadly no internet.

Tomorrow I’ll head through the Sault and then who knows.




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Day 26: Sturgeon Falls, Ont to Nairn Center, Ont.

Go where the wind blows!

Distance: 154.0 km
Riding Time: 5:38 hrs
Average Speed: 27.2 km/h
Max. Speed: 52.4 km/h
*Broke 2000 kms today!

As usual the Ont 17 highway was terrible. What I don’t get is that they’ll have about 500 meters of paved shoulder, usually around a corner or up a hill, but then it goes back to nothing. Stupid.

I could have gone further today. Honestly. I felt about an 80 km tired at the end of the day. Thanks to a little tailwind and cool temps I had a very efficient day of riding. The only reason I stopped was because when I went to a store to get water and some grub, the store clerk mentioned that few bikers had camped in an empty lot across the street that was owned by the store owner. So I took the offer and went to get some supper nearby at a restaurant. When I came back I was scoping out a good spot when another guy, lets call him Bob because that was his name, said I could camp on his yard. I thought this was very kind and I didn’t want to refuse although I would have been happy where I was going to camp, so I said yes. At least it wasn’t right off of the highway, I figured. 
     

So here I am, the place is a teensy bit sketchy, but whatev. I’ll probably be dog food for their ferocious little beast who almost ate me when I showed up. Listen to me – I’m so ungrateful.


We’ll see where I wind up tomorrow (If I see it!).


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Day 25: Pisimi Bay, Ont. To Sturgeon Falls, Ont.

Knock on wood. Zero flats since Halifax!

Approx. (comp reset itself again)
Distance: 83.1 kms

I only planned a short ride today because I desperately needed a new tire. My old rear tire served me well though; about 3000 kms of mostly loaded touring, and zero, count it, ZERO flats! I’m cursing myself right now as I’m typing this, but seriously. If you need quality gear in the HRM make sure to go see Jeff Mayhew at Sportwheels in Lower Sackville. www.sportwheels.ca. The tires I used are Vittoria Randonneur. Excellent!

Anyway the heat was less so today due to a little cloud cover. Turns out yesterday was something like 35 degrees Celsius! Yikes. After reaching North Bay I visited Cycle Works and fixed up my wheels. I also picked up some good gloves because my hands were falling asleep on the bike. I got to Sturgeon Falls and visited a No Frills grocery store. I stashed my bike in the woods behind the store because there were some sketchy looking folks hangin’ round. When I went to get it afterward I found a bunch of blackberry and blueberry bushes. I felt like a wild animal gorging on those, but they were delicious.  

I caved and ended up getting a site in a Sturgeon Falls campground, but I’m definitely going to do more free camping when I reach Lake Superior. 
Tomorrow’s destination isn’t set in stone – just know that it’s west.


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Wednesday, August 10, 2011

Day 24: Mackey, Ont. to Pimisi Bay, Ont.

If you fail to prepare, prepare to fail.

Unfortunately in the heat my bike computer conked out and reset itself, so no stats today.

Looking at the map, it's hard to know what is a small town and what is just a sign in the middle of the highway with a place name on it; probably to name the nearby forested area I suppose. I swear, in this part of the country, they put place names on the map and signs on the road just for the hell of it.

I left my campground at around 10 am after having some oatmeal. I was intent on getting in around 30 kms before I took a break at possibly a convenience store where I could get some snacks and juice (just like recess in Elementary!). 75 kms later though I finally stumbled upon a reasonably large town - large enough to have a store. Mattawa, boasting 2500 residents, bears no resemblance to it's rhyming counterpart, Ottawa. By this time I was exhausted and after lunch I grabbed a couple of winks of sleep at a picnic table. After gaining some energy I wanted to get to North Bay, another 60 kms. Unfortunately this would not happen. The heat was intense, the roads were probably the worst, worst roads I have ever been on. Not probably - they were. And this is suppose to be the Trans-Canada Highway? On top of this, the wind was gusting right in my face.

I got about 24 kms out of Mattawa and saw a sign for a rest stop ahead. I turned in, but I ended up at a small campground so I swallowed my pride and asked about a site for the night. No sites available! It was Friday, I had forgotten. However,  the owners of the campground offered me a guest room that was more like a private trailer, for $30. I'm sure they were taking pity on me as it could definitely be rented for $50 - 60. I was sure they were taking pity on me after they offered me a cold beer and water too. My thanks to their kind souls; I'll get one excellent sleep tonight.

Oh there was one cool thing that happened on the road today: I saw a red-tailed hawk hunting. Neat.


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Day 23: Pembroke, Ont. to Mackey, Ont.

It's hard to get started again, once you stop

Distance: 94.5 kms
Riding Time: 3:38 hrs
Average Speed: 25.9 km/h
Max. Speed: 52.4 km/h

I reluctantly left the comforts of my Aunt Carol's and Uncle Patrick's cottage today and set out towards North Bay. My goal was not North Bay as it is near 200 kms away and I am not that ambitious at the moment.

I stayed off the Ont 17 highway until I had to get on it, which was just outside of Petawawa. Going through a couple small towns I managed to get a sweet deal on pizza for lunch: 2 slices of pepperoni and a pop for $3.99!

The 17 isn't all that bad so far. Well, the highway is crap for shoulders, but the majority of drivers are considerate. I met a pretty old french guy on a trip from Vancouver to La Beauce, Que. He was super friendly and I snapped a photo of him. Here's some info on him if you're interested and can understand french: http://www.editionbeauce.com/nouvelles/actualites/14307/jacques-palard-arrivera-en-beauce-a-velo.php

Tomorrow I'm headed for North Bay on the shores of Lake Nipissing.


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Day 20, 21 and 22: Rest in Pembroke, Ont.`

Summertime, and the living's easy

I really love this cottage. The Ottawa river is gorgeous. There are Great Blue Herons, Mussels everywhere, frogs, geese, ducks, mosquitos (not so great) and the water is warm as bath water. I slept like a log and my aunt cooked a big breakfast. It's funny though, it seems like regardless of how much I eat, I'm always, always hungry. I think I have a problem.

Anyway, it is great to see family, or even a familiar face after 3 weeks almost. Today I did my best impression of a lazy bum and tried not to move around too much. I did work on my bike though and I had to rotate the old tires as the rear one was wearing down to another layer, not meant to be ridden upon; the warning layer I would call it. The front one looks brand new though so now it's in the back.

I'll start my ride through Ontario in a couple days. it will be long and the highway will not be fun, but it will be done. Everybody point your fans west and give me some tailwinds.

Day 18: Montreal, Que. to Parts unknown, Ont.

Try As You May, You May End Up Sleeping on the Side of the Highway 

Distance: 124.8 kms
Riding Time: 5:25 hrs
Average Speed: 23.0 km/h
Max. Speed: 47.8 km/h

Well, needless to say I didn't make Ottawa today. I tried, but it just couldn't be done. It was about 30 degrees celsius and the wind was about 20 km/h from the NW - almost always in my face. Also, the day started late, at about 10:30 am and my host, while kind in offering to bring me out of the city and giving me an alternative route to Ottawa, led me out of Montreal at a pace far too fast for my liking for the first 30 kms. Those are my excuses, but really, making Ottawa, some 200 kms or more away was quite ambitious. Anyway, despite the crazy twists and turns of my route out of Montreal, I got out; mostly due to the helpful guidance of strangers along the way.

I've landed somewhere off the Ont 17 highway outside of Hawkesbury, Ontario. I'm very, very tired so bed is early and tomorrow I'll head to Ottawa to meet up with my Aunt who has a cottage nearby. I plan to rest for a couple days and enjoy some down time. Salut Quebec! (I don't know how to make accented e's. My apologies francophones)


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Thursday, August 04, 2011

Day 17: Trois Rivieres, Que. to Montreal, Que.

Au Montreal: A Pretty Cool Band

Distance: 143.9 kms
Riding Time: 6:04 hrs
Average Speed: 23.6 km/h
Max. Speed: 54.7 km/h

Another scenic cruise down the QC 138 highway along the north shore of the Saint Lawrence River. Several sections of the road travelled directly adjacent to the St. Lawrence, which made for some excellent scenery. Not much in the way of big towns - except for Montreal. Regardless, every single town has a church grander than grand. I took some photos of one in Louiseville, which is noted for its bright blue doors.

Montreal's suburbs stretched for kilometers and the roads, unfortunately were not favourable for my non-suspension touring rig loaded with 60+ pounds (yeah I packed too much). Nevertheless, persistance pays and I found myself in a nice part of Montreal near to the Old City.

My host brought me out for a spin on the BIXI rental bikes that can be found everywhere in the city. We got a beer, saw an ABBA impersonator show (it was surrela, in a weird, being teleported to another planet kind of way), and finally got some poutine. There were at least 30 different kinds of poutine at the place we went...ridiculous.

Tomorrow an attempt for Ottawa will be made.


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Day 16: Trois Rivieres, Que. (Rest day)

Well obviously I`m not trying to set any speed records, so I took this sunny day to explore Trois Rivieres. I also was invited by my host to visit her parents house on a lake in Shawinigan (The birthplace of the great Jean Chretien). All in all a great day spent relaxing. Tomorrow, I promise, I`ll hit Montreal.

Day 15: Quebec, Que. To Trois Riviere, Que.

Leaving Late Makes for a Dark Arrival


Distance: 131.7 kms
Riding Time: 5:07 hrs
Average Speed: 25.7 km/h
Max. Speed: 54.2 km/h
 

Well, late nights turn into late mornings and I only got up at around 10 am. I lollygagged for a while and finally got on the road by 2 pm. I decided I would try for Trois Riviere, so I sent some emails to people there on warmshowers and mounted my steed. The ride along the QC-138 highway is pretty flat after Quebec city and I  did the 130 k to Trois Riviere in only 5 hours. It was dark, however, by the time I arrived, but my host, Claudine, is very nice and made me feel welcome. Turns out I’m her first guest from warmshowers!

Anyway, today’s ride was pretty uneventful. The scenery was very pretty at some points and there were some huge churches. Tomorrow I’ll make for Montreal.


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Day 14: Quebec, Que. (Rest day)

There's Nothing Interesting About Resting, Unless You're In Quebec City

Last night’s festivities kept me up rather late so today was a late rise. It rained most of the day and there were some thunder showers too. I mostly just worked on my blog, but at around 5 pm the rain stopped and David, Rafael’s brother took me out to see the old city on bike. It was beautiful – statues everywhere with grad buildings and fountains. They have a citadel just like Halifax and it looks very similar. I sampled some poutine at Ashtons, which is renowned for it’s poutine skills, and then checked out a free Cirque du Soleil show that was held outside, under an overpass. It was ridiculously good and the price couldn’t be better. Tomorrow I’ll head either to Portneuf or Trois Rivieres.

Day 13: L’Islet-sue-Mer, Que. To Quebec, Que.

When In Doubt, Just Call Ten Different People
Distance: 88.1 kms
Riding Time: 3:39 hrs
Average Speed: 24.1 km/h
Max. Speed: 45.0 km/h
Times getting completely lost in Quebec city: 2

It was a beautiful day with sunshine and a great, old city as a destination. In fact, the oldest city in Canada, Quebec celebrated its 403rd birthday this year. The QC-132 highway led me to some great bicycle paths in Levis that travel along the St. Lawrence. I still hadn't managed to find a host for the night after my arrival in Levis, so I began dialing numbers. After taking the ferry into Quebec I found a place to stay just outside of the downtown core. My host tonight, Rafael, is a French head chef and I’m in for a treat with salmon and trout on the menu. Tomorrow I may take a day off to explore and rest my knees, which were hurting badly today.


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Day 12: Riviere-du-Loup, Que. to L'islet-sur-Mer, Que.

 Who Needs Tailwinds When You Have Super Fast Old Guys?

Distance: 113.2 kms
Riding Time: 4:29 hrs
Average Speed: 25.2 km/h
Max. Speed: 56.2 km/h
*I broke 1000 kms on my odometer today! 

The weather and lady luck were in my corner today. The sun was at full strength, but it was not humid thanks to the thunderstorm that passed the night before.

On my ride today I met an older (~65 years) gentleman cycling who was very fast and let me draft him for about 10 kms going about 30 km/h (pretty fast for an old dude!).

At a rest stop I met 2 older Quebecois gentlemen who indulged me with a cold beer and conversation in broken English and French. And then, just as I was leaving the rest stop another gentleman offered me some ice cold water and a ham sandwich AND some watermelon. He was truly a God in my eyes.

Then just to top things off, after a very beautiful sunset over the St. Lawrence at L’Islet-sur-Mer I met a father and son, supported by a vehicle driven by mom, who were doing the exact same trip as me except they were going west to east. They were even using the same book as me, Canada by Bicycle by Steve Langdon (www.canadabybicycle.com). They were kind enough to give me some maps as well as some friendly advice. All in all, today was a great day.




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Day 11: Rest in Riviere-du-Loup, Que.

Those Look Like Storm Clouds...

Took a day to relax and enjoy some downtime. Visited the pier and saw some Belugas! Got soaked in a crazy storm and had some drinks with the hostellers. Conversation mostly consisted of me trying in vain to learn French. Oh mon dieu.

Day 10: Le Bic, Que. To Riviere-du-Loup, Que.

Always, Remember the Sunscreen

Distance: 97.2 kms
Riding Time: 3:58 hrs
Average Speed: 24.5 km/h
Max. Speed: 67.2 km/h (I’m driving like a Quebecois!)

I did a little sleeping in today on account of the couple beers I enjoyed last night with my wonderful host. When I left at 10 am it was overcast, but soon after it became sunny, then back to dreary and foggy, and in the end the sun prevailed and it was a glorious day.

I thoroughly enjoyed the ride in the sun with the accompanying tailwind, but later as a wonderful red hue started to glow with pain on my arms and neck, I was not so amused. And with my t-shirt and bike gloves, I had probably the most ridiculous looking tan lines ever. Luckily though, there were some very helpful Scottish girls staying at the hostel I am at who suggested using vinegar to bring down the redness. Although I was sceptical, I gave it a try and lo and behold, I now look and smell fantastic!


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Day 9: Val-Brillant, Que. To Le Bic, Que.

Drip Drop, The Rain Hath Cometh

 Distance: 111.5 kms
Riding Time: 4:25 hrs
Average Speed: 25.1 km/h
Max. Speed: 60.6 km/h
# of Cheese Burger Bacon (not bacon cheeseburgers, but just as delicious) eaten: 2, so far

I woke up very early today: 5 am, but really 6 am because I had moved into another time zone. I was off at 7 after a breakfast of pancakes and coffee and half my distance was done at 11 am when I stopped at Mont Joli for a bite to eat. And then it started to rain…and it didn’t stop. It slowed down, but it didn’t stop. Eventually I made it to Rimouski soaking wet and called a guy I had contacted on warmshowers named Marc-Andre. He let me come over for the night, so I’m writing this in the comfort of a bed and a roof over my head. This website is really great and I plan on using it more often, for sure. So tired, good night.


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